Red gurnard. Gurnards are strange-looking, scaly, spiky, bottom-feeding fish which use the three bottom rays of their pectoral fins to "feel" the sea bed. They have firm-textured white meat with a mild flavour. They are rich in protein, iodine and phosphorus. The red gurnard is the most attractive member of the family with pinkish-red colour and the finest flavour of the gurnards. They are all bony and tend to dryness so they are best served with a sauce. Small ones are excellent in soup. Red or grey mullet (US: striped mullet) can generally be subsituted for it, and are usually better.
"Rust." A version of aïoli flavoured with cayenne, hence the name, meaning rust and saffron. It is a fiery accompaniment to fish soups and stews in the south of France.
"Eel roulade in the style of Anjou." Stuffed eel, wrapped in bacon, tied in a ring and cooked in Anjou wine with cream and crayfish.
