The Ross Cobb is a chicken genetically engineered to put on fat in factory farming settings. It grows from new born to a two-kilo bird in six weeks. Kept in poor conditions, these chickens suffer burns to their legs from the waste in which they sit. The meat they produce is without texture or taste and yet they are the provenance of over 90% of the chicken meat consumed in this country. In my childhood, the meat of treats, of Easter lunch and holiday suppers, was a good tasty chicken. Beef and lamb were relatively cheap. Now, we expect to pay next to nothing for a chicken and, if we do, a Ross Cobb is what we are likely to get. It really is worth paying the extra for something which has led a decent life and ends up providing a memorable meal.