A dish of the American South, Hoppin' Jonn is black eyed peas cooked with salt pork, tomatoes and herbs and served with rice.
The name has no certain origin but some say "an old, hobbled man called Hoppin’ John became known for selling peas and rice on the streets of Charleston” (Butler). There are multiple stories explaining the unusual name, but no matter the tale, the origin and recipe are the same. Hoppin’ John is of Middle Eastern and West African descent.
In the early seventeenth century, French Protestants brought pilau to America. Hoppin’ John is made of boiled rice and cowpeas and bacon fried with onions for flavor. It originated from pilau and some West African influences (Fowler 252). It is predominantly found along the coastal Carolina region because rice was raised in this area, and the West African slaves were brought there to grow it. Farmers rotated peas with the rice to replenish the soil. They found that dried peas and rice lasted all year, as did cured ham and bacon, so Hoppin’ John could be eaten through the winter. Originally, it was made with flavorful red or cream colored peas. “Black eyed peas took their place when farmers found that they were easy to grow and grew in high yields” (Moskin).
The first written recipe for Hoppin’ John was composed by Sarah Rutledge in 1847 in “The Carolina Housewife.” There are different variations some using different meats and seasoning. Some people use garlic, bay, and even lemon to add zest to the naturally bland concoction of rice and peas. It has many global variations. The Guyanese dish “Cook-up rice” is very similar, using coconut milk and black-eyed peas. “Hoppin’ Juan” is a Cuban dish which is also very similar but substitutes Cuban black beans for black-eyed peas.
The most common recipe is prepared by sautéing onions in bacon grease until tender. Then boil the black eyed peas with salt pork. When they are done, drain and stir the peas, pork, and pepper flakes in with the onions. Let the combination of foods simmer for ten minutes. Last, add hot, cooked rice and salt to the peas. Hoppin’ John is served hot and is usually accompanied by cornbread (Hoppin’ John).
Hoppin’ John is part of the traditional southern New Year’s Day menu. Collard greens, cornbread, and Hoppin’ John are believed to bring good luck and fortune in the year to come. The black-eyed peas in Hoppin’ John symbolize coins. Sometimes the cook would put one shiny, new coin in the pot, and who ever received it would be lucky for the rest of the year. Other traditions called for a coin to be place under each bowl. The collard greens stand for paper money, and the cornbread represents gold. Symbolism aside, the most likely reason for Hoppin’ John’s inclusion on this menu is its availability in winter. Beans, peas, and rice would be dried during summer months, therefore were accessible all winter. Collard greens would continue to grow through the cold season. The corn would be ground in the summer, so it was also available during this time to make cornbread.
Many Southern restaurants serve Hoppin’ John. Some well-known places to find it are Husk and McCrady’s in Charleston, South Carolina, where Chef Sean Brock uses traditional Carolina gold rice and red peas. He says, “These were the original ingredients used to make Hoppin’ John,” (Bunkycooks). Other recipes may use white rice instead. Hoppin’ John has adapted to many culinary trends. Modern recipes may use turkey, to cut down on fat and sodium, as opposed to the traditional pork.
Lexicographer: Sydney Addison, Mercer University
