Crackling was the bit we all fought over as children when the roast pork came out of the oven on Sunday, with Two-Way Family Favourites on the radio. It is the skin of the joint, scored into strips before it is cooked. With the addition of a little salt and a lot of heat, as the joint roasts the skin turns into strips of crisp, golden, bubbling crackling. Oh for the day when no-one ever discussed how bad these things might be for health and we charged in from the garden with cold cold fingers and were given a piece of crackling to crunch until the meat had been carved, the apple sauce dished out and the roast potatoes and parsnips placed on the table in great tureens.