Pasta "rings". Smaller ones are popular in soups. They are cut from a tube about 1 cm (½ inch) in diameter. My first husband was a goldsmith and he used to buy long tubes of gold from Johnson Matthey, made to the dimensions of different finger sizes. To make wedding rings he cut a slice off the one of the right size, just like making anelli, and then polished it and finished it off. My own wedding ring he made by buying a piece of red gold and then hammering it and folding it, hammering it and folding it, 27 times and then forming a ring, cabbed on both sides, smooth and dense and recognisably beautiful. The marriage lasted 6 months. Since my second husband forgot to buy a ring for my second wedding, we used the one made by my first husband. At last, it has become the symbol it should have been - of an enduring, warm love.

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