The Levant to many means the area around present day Lebanon but will, in culinary terms, most often mean the region of eastern Spain, lying on the Mediterranean coast between Catalonia and Andalucia and including Valencia, renowned for its paella. Irrigation systems were built by the Moors in the south of the region and these are still operative, the evidence visible in Murcia. Further north, as you fly into Valencia, looking down you will see mile upon mile of orange groves, other citrus fruits, rice paddies, almond and fig trees, date palms and vegetables. The rice, of course, became the staple food of the region and provide the basis for paella, as well as for other rice dishes using local produce such as eel from lakes, meat and fish, game and snails. Look out for the fideua if you are in the region.
Spotted ray. A ray which may be found anywhere from the North Sea to the Mediterranean. As you would expect it has spots on its back, and, like the thornback ray, very good flavour.
Lovage. A large unwieldy herb. Pick the stems off the leaves, tie them and hang them to dry for about 3 days. When crisp, crumble the leaves and store. Good in hotpots. Lovage seeds are used mainly in Indian cooking, and are from a plant of the caraway family. The greenish-brown seeds are a little larger than celery seeds and have a strong aroma of rather coarse thyme. Oregano can be substituted.
