Wedge sole. A small, sought-after sole from the eastern Atlantic and found in Charentes and Poitou.

Pike. A large, freshwater fish with multiple small bones.

Bronze or white grouper. A large fish similar to a sea bream, generally grey in colour. May be recognised from distinctive whites lines on the cheeks. These groupers are found more in the south of the Mediterranean than the north, particularly around Cyprus.

Savoy cabbage. A lovely, solidly packed cabbage with solidly crinkly leaves.

Endive (US: chicory)

The edible crab measuring as much as 20 cm (8”) across. This is a beast with well flavoured, succulent brown and white meat. I prefer a good fresh crab to lobster, though a good fresh lobster will do! The brown meat is held inside the carapace or shell, while the white meat is found, with a little effort, in the claws. It is fished in the eastern side of the Atlantic rather than the Mediterranean but is available in markets not on the Atlantic.