The blusher. The one problem with this mushroom is that, whilst edible itself, it closely resembles others that are poisonous, including the death cap. It must be cooked as it contains a toxin which is destroyed by heat, like kidney beans. The most identifiable thing about it is that this reddish brown mushroom with pinkish grey scales and a white stem colours pink to red at sites of damage or bruising. The gills and flesh are white, also becoming red or pink on bruising. It is most commonly found in beech woods in summer to late autumn (US: fall). Also look closely at the ring on the stem. This should have lots of fine grooves on its upper side, unlike another poisonous mushroom which it closely resembles, the panther cap.
Caesar's mushroom. Excellent raw in salads or grilled, stuffed or used as a garnish.
Garfish. A striking, beaked, marine fish up to 60 cm (2 ft) long, with a backbone which turns bright green on cooking and a delicious flavour, found on most European coasts.
Orsières is the region from which Raclette comes. This is a hard mountain cheese made with unpasteurised whole cow's milk. Soft and mild as a young cheese the flavour becomes more full-bodied as it ages and becoming a grating cheese when it really hardens up.
The ortanique is a sweet, tender citrus hybrid with few pips and thin skin, easy to peel, grown under a number of names, depending on the place of origin. This name, ortanique, is made up from the letters at the beginning of the words "orange" and "tangerine" and at the end of "unique". First known as ortanique.
"Nettle of the sea." Snakelocks anemone; an anemone which looks like all tentacles and no body.
Ortolan. Wheatear. A bunting. A small bird regarded as a great delicacy in southern France, especially in the Landes. Traditionally, it is eaten with the head of the diner covered with his napkin. It is not known, through the mists of time, whether this is to concentrate the aromas rising from the bird, or to hide such gluttony from the face of God. It is clearly nothing to do with the fact that these birds, trapped in their thousands and sold at enormous prices, are drowned in high quality Cognac. François Mitterand is famously said to have requested these for his last meal before he died. Although the trapping of these birds is against the law, as this is an endangered species, the practice continues in France and elsewhere, with frozen ortolans being sent to the US market.
"Ortolans in the style of Brissac." Ortolans roasted on skewers with ham and served with mushrooms, truffles and fried bread.
